Seven hours of braiding for $275, and clients call it a rip-off. Too much?

The question

An illustrative letter.

The answer

My dear, seven hours on your feet, your hands working the whole time, and then someone sends you a price from 2015 and calls you a thief. That would wear anyone down. Let me say it plainly: you are not overcharging. You may well be undercharging, and the numbers will show it.

What do I really earn on a $275 set?

Start with the simple sum. $275 divided by seven hours is about $39 an hour. That is your gross, before a single cost.

Now take out what each appointment costs you:

• Hair, if you supply it.
• Your share of chair or booth rent for those seven hours.
• Supplies, from edge control to mousse, gloves and combs.
• Self-employment tax. If you work for yourself, you pay both halves of Social Security and Medicare, 15.3 percent on most of your net earnings, on top of income tax.
• Unpaid time: consultations, messages, cleaning up, and the no-shows that leave a seven-hour gap in your week.

Write your own figures beside each line. Many braiders who do this find their true hourly pay is far below what clients imagine.

Why do clients think it is too much?

Partly because they see one total, not the hours behind it. Partly because prices they remember are years old, from before rents, hair and supplies rose. And partly because skilled work done by hand is often undervalued simply because it looks effortless in the hands of an expert. In New York, braiding that puts tension on the hair roots may only be performed by a licensed professional, and the natural hair styling license alone requires a 300-hour course and state exams. Clients are paying for that training and skill, not only the time.

How do I set a price I can stand behind?

Decide the hourly pay you need after costs and taxes, then build your prices from it. If a style takes seven hours and you want a certain hourly rate, the price follows. Price by size and length, since small, waist-length knotless braids take far longer than medium, shoulder-length ones. Review your prices once a year as your costs change.

How do I show what is included?

Clarity disarms complaints. Publish a price list that shows, for each style, the size, the length, the time it usually takes, and what is included: hair, wash, blow-dry, take-down or touch-ups. When a client can see that $275 includes seven hours of skilled work and possibly the hair itself, the number makes sense. Photos of your finished work, with permission, do the rest.

How do I protect my time?

• Take deposits. A non-refundable deposit to book protects you from no-shows and filters out people who are not serious.
• Set a clear policy for lateness, cancellations and rescheduling, and share it when booking.
• Price add-ons separately, such as extra length, beads or a second color, so the base price stays honest.

What do I say to someone who calls it a rip-off?

Nothing defensive. A calm reply is enough: "My prices reflect the time and skill each style takes. I understand if it is not right for you." Then let them go. The clients who argue about price before the appointment are rarely the ones who come back, refer friends or praise good work. The ones who value you will.

How do I raise my prices without losing everyone?

Give notice. Tell clients a month or two ahead that prices will change on a set date, and let regulars book at the current price until then. Explain briefly that costs have risen and that you want to keep giving each client your full time and care. Most loyal clients understand, and the few who leave free up hours for people who value your work.

How do I attract clients who value the work?

Show it. Clear photos of your finished styles, with permission, and short notes on how long each took, help people see what they are paying for. Ask happy clients for reviews and referrals, and consider a small thank-you for those who send friends. Over time, a reputation for quality draws clients who come to you for your skill, not your discount.

How do I build a business, not just a busy week?

Track your income and costs each month, set aside money for taxes every time you are paid, and keep a cushion for slow seasons. Many braiders find that raising prices slightly brings fewer, better clients and more time to rest. A full book at a price that leaves you exhausted and short is not success. A steady book at a fair price is.

You turn hours of skill into something your clients wear with pride, my dear. Know your numbers, show your value, and charge for your time without apology.

One thing to do this week

List every cost of one seven-hour appointment, work out your true hourly pay, and draft a price list that shows what is included.